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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.